The 5 mistakes of the beginner surfer

When you're a beginner surfer, it's easy to get carried away. But surfing is a complex sport and, although increasingly accessible, technique is hard to acquire. It's easy to imagine yourself surfing perfect, tubular waves on a pro's shortboard. But surfing as seen on social networks and surfing as a beginner are extremely different. If you want to improve your surfing skills and avoid developing faults, it's important not to make these 5 beginner's mistakes.

1. Underestimating conditions

This is one of the most dangerous mistakes a beginner can make. Underestimating the conditions can be dangerous both for the beginner and for the other surfers in the water. That's why it's important to take a good look at the spot and the waves before getting in the water. Are there many people in the water? If so, are there any novice surfers? Is there a current or any other potential danger? Asking the right questions before getting in the water is essential to avoid putting yourself in danger and losing interest in surfing.

If the waves are too big, there's sure to be a fallback spot near you that's more accessible. A fallback spot is one that is less exposed to swell than the main spots. In the event of a big swell, they offer smaller and generally cleaner waves than the other spots. Beware, however, as these spots are usually very crowded.

To sum up, the beginner surfer must not be presumptuous and must always show a certain humility in the face of the ocean. After all, it's a dangerous element that nobody can really control. If the waves are too big, it's best to postpone your session or find a calmer spot to avoid putting yourself in danger.

2. Choose a board that's too small

Once again, just because all professional surfers ride shortboards doesn't mean this type of board is suitable for everyone. True, shortboards are ultra-light, responsive and very maneuverable, but they are reserved for intermediate to advanced surfers. Their low volume makes them difficult to take-off and paddle. But a beginner surfer needs buoyancy and stability to get to grips with the waves. The choice of board is therefore very important for a good start, and should be made gradually.

How do you choose your board when you're a beginner surfer?

If the surfer is just learning to stand up on a board, it's best to choose a softboard. Softboards are high-volume boards that are easy to take off and paddle. Their foam construction helps avoid accidents in the event of impact with the board, as do their soft FCS fins, which prevent cuts. With a foam board, the beginner surfer will be able to tackle his or her first waves with peace of mind, without the risk of injury.

Once comfortable in small waves, beginners can switch to an epoxy or shockproof board, reducing the volume a little if they wish. As your level progresses, you'll be able to choose a lower-volume board until you reach shortboards or fish, which will enable you to perform more radical maneuvers such as rollers, carves and so on.

3. Not knowing the priority rules

There's nothing worse than being robbed of a wave by another surfer. In surfing, there are rules of priority which are necessary to guarantee a good atmosphere in the water and maximum safety. The rules of priority are simple: the first surfer standing on the wave has priority. In the event of 2 surfers paddling a wave at the same time, the surfer closest to the peak (furthest inside the wave) has the right to ride it.

As a beginner, you need to keep these rules in mind. Some experienced surfers are not very tolerant of beginners who get in their way. Not to mention the risk of injury and collision between 2 surfers, which can be dramatic. That's why it's important to look both ways before getting on a wave.

4. Let go of your board to ride the waves

Another potentially dangerous thing that beginner surfers tend to do is let go of their boards to dive under the waves. As well as risking damage to their equipment, beginners run the risk of bumping into other surfers or swimmers around them. This brings us back to point number 1: if conditions are too rough, it's better to move to another spot or not get in the water at all.

In all cases, the surfer must remain in control of his equipment. Although it's tempting to let go of your board to dive under the waves and get to the line-up faster, it's better to get shaken up than to risk hurting someone. There are times, however, when you may not have a choice. In that case, try to make sure no one is behind you. Also, try to hold your board by the leash as tightly as possible.

5. Not asking about the spot before getting in the water

Just because there are waves somewhere doesn't mean you have to get in the water. It's essential to find out about the spot before you go surfing. Each surf spot has its own particularities. For example, some spots are best at high tide, others at low tide or with a minimum tidal range. Wind direction is also a factor. For perfect conditions, you need a light offshore wind. Beginner surfers need to be well-informed to be able to surf in the best conditions.

How do you know the characteristics of a surf spot?

There are numerous platforms dedicated to wave forecasting and referencing. On these, beginners can find all the information they need:

• Wind direction & strength
• Type of spot (beach-break, reef-break, point-break...)
• Wave size and period
• Wave size
• Tide
• Spot population

Depending on the platform, the information may differ, but the best-known are Surf Report, Magicseaweed and Windguru, among others.